Restaurant Review: Jackie Rey's Ohana Grill in Hilo

Intro

In a city without a lot of fine dining options, Jackie Rey’s stands out. It would probably still stand out in a town with more competition at this level. It’s great at lunch or dinner and is one of our go-to’s in town if we are looking for a cocktail with lunch or dinner and a nice meal.

Ambiance

This restaurant is located in an old bank building in downtown Hilo right on the corner of Wainuenue and Keawe. They’ve retained some of the charm of the original building, like a large vault at the back. Jackie Rey’s has some of the best design as far as Hilo restaurants go. Their antique bar is eye catching and the vintage screens at the back of the restaurant definitely deserve a second look.

The interior is a really nice modern update with lots of wood and clean lines. It’s one of the more elegant places in the city to have a meal.

Drinks

So one of the regular drinks I order to measure a bar in Hawaii is a maitai. Yes, it’s a pretty trite drink, but because it is so ubiquitous, it can really winnow out the bar chafe. For instance, at one really high end beach resort on the west side of the island, I ordered a maitai at the poolside bar. It was so acidic it was undrinkable, and given the level of service and quality throughout the resort, I had expected something way nicer.

Well, Jackie Rey’s is probably in my top five as far as maitais go, and I will pretty much order it every time. It’s a good balance of sweet and sharp with a nice heavy pour of dark rum on the top. Nothing fancy, nothing revolutionary, but quite solid and tasty with just the right amount of garnish on top.

They also have a nice selection of local beers. Patrick ordered a Big Swell IPA from Maui Brewing and it was served up nice and cold like he likes it. They also have Ola Brewing selections and some from Kona Brewing as well. A little surprising that they don’t have anything from the brewing company they share a town with but maybe that’s coming soon.

Their wine list is pretty thorough for Hilo, including some nice international variety. I can have an allergic reaction to some red wines, but I’m normally safe with Spanish reds, so it was nice to be able to order a very reasonably priced Tempranillo with our dinner the other night.

And don’t forget their special Wednesday night deal, when you get half off a bottle of wine with the purchase of an entree. Here’s a great chance to try one of those pricier bottles you wouldn’t normally be able to afford. And Jackie Rey’s does have some remarkable bottles on their list.

Food

The food at Jackie Rey’s runs the gamut from local to Mediterranean. You can order poke, grilled steaks, hummus plates, pasta, a hamburger... Really there is something for everyone, but their menu is nicely curated so it does not feel overwhelming.

We’ve tried several things on their menu. I’m a definite fan of their clam chowder, and I grew up on the central coast of California, eating a lot of clam chowder. Theirs is flavorful and not too thick with nice chunks of potato and clam.

Two staples worth mentioning on the dinner menu are the surf and turf plate and the seafood trio. Both of these can easily be split by two light eaters and offer a nice variety for a meal.

I’m also really into their Tuesday night lobster special. These are Maine lobster raised in cold water off the coast of Kona. I’ve had steamed lobster in Maine and I actually prefer Jackie Rey’s. This is also superior to the little rock lobster tails you might get at other restaurants on Hawaii Island.

Prime rib

On our most recent visit, on a Thursday night, I opted for the prime rib special. They have this every Thursday and it’s well worth the visit. The meat was perfectly cooked to my specification and the herbed crust on the outside was very flavorful. The sides were tasty too. I specifically liked the fresh green beans which were crisp but not squeaky.

Patrick ordered the Black Angus burger here and it was great. This is the sort of thing that can be a trap for a nicer restaurant. You put a burger on the menu for folks like him who just want something simple much of the time, but if you don’t execute it well it looks really bad for you. Fine dining ain’t so fine if you can’t execute a burger as well as anything else on your menu. But Jackie’s did it right like we knew they would. Sturdy bun, high quality meat that was cooked to juicy perfection and dressed with the works.

Angus Burger

The fries are not fresh cut or anything, but they are fried well--brown and crisp--and dusted with seasoning salt, giving them a nice flavor profile.

You have to finish with our favorite dessert: the triple fudge brownie roll. We generally split this between four people, although it’s advertised for two. This is a swiss roll of vanilla ice cream and chewy, fudgy brownie and it is to die for. It is one of the reasons we frequently share an entree, so we have enough room for this dessert! Save a sip or two of red wine to finish it off as well.

Service

Jackie Rey’s is about as fine dining as you can get in Hilo, and the service is generally up to par. We’ve had some slow lunches, but generally we don’t mind because we don’t go to eat there when we are in a hurry.

Service at dinner is always knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient. Waters and wine glasses are kept filled, courses are served when they are supposed to be served, and the wait staff never seems pressured.

Closing

So if you are visiting on the cruise ship and are looking for a place for lunch, or you’ve come over from Kona to visit the family, or you are local and looking for a nice restaurant to celebrate a special occasion, give Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill a try. You won’t be disappointed.

Link:
https://www.jackiereys.com/hilo